Capri - a sunny island sojourn in January
Anacapri
Chiesa di San Michele, one of the most amazing aspects of
this little church is the 'splendid majolica'
floor. The whole floor is is a full scene
of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden
Minus of visiting in January - some things are closed, like this chairlift
to the top of Monte Solaro - guess I'll have to hike!
Villa San Michele
The Sphinx looking out over Capri
And wouldn't you know it - one tiny island nation has made its
way to one tiny Mediterranean island
Axel Munthe's Villa San Michele, this guy is a Swede and a man I would have loved
to be buddies with. This says (regarding a wine carafe
held by a skeleton from Pompeii) "the meaning is that
one should enjoy life while one can". Amen Axel, amen.
It goes on to say how Axel believed in the simpleness of
food with plenty of wine and vegetables, and that no one
over 50 should eat meat, except prosciutto = new bestie.
If I've piqued your interest here, you can check out the
best-selling novel the Story of San Michele
Enjoying Napolitano/Caprese pizza on the seaside before heading back.
As mentioned in my last post, I have a lot on my list that I want to do differently this time around in Italy (sans thesis hanging over my head), and since I may only have six weeks, I really have to get amongst it, as they say in NZed. I woke up last Saturday after a stressful work week, and decided I would go to Capri. Yes, I know it's January and Capri is an island loved as a summer destination - but I'd never been AND one of my first Italian friends is from Capri, so I figured I owed her a visit to her homeland. Plus, it's only 2 hours from Rome by pub trans, and has lots of hills.
I contemplated a stop in Napoli and then when I got there, decided no, I don't need more city time, so I hopped on the ferry which is only a 45min ride from Napoli. I was joined by some travelers from Portugal and some American study abroaders, and the rest of the ship relatively empty, save some locals out for their weekend shopping. About 10min in, I felt very very bad for the unknowing Portuguese and Americans who thought they were out for a lazy cruise. In winter especially, the sea can be rough, and this is not a cruise ship, its a fast mini-boat (hydrofoil) = vomiting all over the place. None the less, I enjoyed the ride thanks to my gift of a sturdy stomach and arrived quickly to island paradise.
I hadn't booked anything partly because I decided to come that morning, but also because it's January and frankly no one is in Capri in January, save for a few unknowing Portuguese tourists with sea belly. Of the Italian isole, Capri is by far the most expensive, elite, and crowded - in summer, even though it doesn't even have any beaches. It is all rocky mountain surging into the Mediterranean. Perfect for me - no tourists, plenty of hills to climb, and rock bottom prices.
Upon inquiry at the tourist office, I found a hotel for 50 euro per night with a sea view and balcony (in summer its 250 per night). I had the whole hotel to myself, except for the lovely Swiss owner who set me up with dinner reservations to eat some of Capri's local finest. I basically spent the afternoon relaxing with the sunset and strolling through Capri's posh shopping streets, enjoying an apperitivo on the main piazza with the locals, and then heading to dinner for one where I received not one, but three notes from the waiter asking if I would meet him afterwards. Again the combined lack of visitors, plus traveling alone making others real uncomfortable to the point of them feeling like you MUST want company - nope just on a weekend me-moon.
I woke up early Sunday to the sunrise from my balcony and set out for the hills and to tour Anacapri which has more ancient villas/churches than Capri town itself. I also fancied a ride on the chairlift to the top of one of the mountains, but alas January thwarted that one. I had the whole mountain to myself and just as I was feeling a bit like I was back in NZed, I ran into a remote cottage called "NZed house" - of course.
All in all it was an easy weekend away and a nice change from the city streets and chaos of Rome. Next up - skiing in Abruzzo this weekend. Wish me luck because snow is on its way to Rome tomorrow as I hit the road, and please trust me when I tell you that Romans do not know what to do with themselves with snow. The mayor canceled all schools and government (not hard to do in Italy) at 3pm before a single snowflake had fallen. Oh Italy
