Love is in the air

Alberobello, Puglia

Laura giving Paola and I a guided tour of her wedding day last year

The Chiesa a Trullo (Trulli church)

On a trulli magnificent spring weekend

After all my travels, taking some time to relax

Exploring Dante's Inferno in the Castellana caves

Matera, Basilicata

On the way to the spa that's built into a cave

I guess this means I'll be back

Sleeping in a cave, check

Enjoying the views from the cliffs of Matera

Matera, a town carved into a cliffside

No need for air con in Matera, all of the caves stay a refreshing 70 degrees at all times

Teaching Paola and Laura the joys of pyramids

And Laura how to frolic (which Paola who speaks British English thinks means to fornicate). Which really caused a lot of confusion when I told her I liked frolicking with sheep in New Zealand

Grazie Laura and Paola

After traveling in Sierra Leone for two weeks, I arrived back in Italy to depart one day later for Puglia. When I first met Laura long ago she regaled Paola and I with her fairy tale, super creative surprise wedding that she planned last year in a little town called Alberobello. Since then, we'd been talking about planning a trip back for Laura to show us around.  Given my unknown status in Italy, we kept thinking of weekends and then they didn't work given my travel to Peru, New Zealand, Tanzania, Sierra Leone but had finally decided on this weekend. What wasn't planned was that I would be in SL longer than expected. While you might wonder why I would want to travel again less than one day after returning - you haven't met Laura and Paola. I literally landed from SL, unpacked/showered/laundryed/repacked and went to work. And somehow, it was the softest, most welcoming return to Italy that I could have imagined. First, Laura who is our project assistant and my own personal super hero (she saves the day at least 3 times a day), is unlike typical super heros who only possess one talent because she has many. She used to own her own tourism company before coming to slum it at FAO with all of us jerks. So basically all I had to do for this weekend away was show up and be whisked away on a perfectly planned, luxurious, informative, relaxing weekend exploring cities I haven't visited because you need a car and I thought a lot of time, but actually you just need Laura. And second, Paola is possibly one of the most entertaining people I have ever met. You can be sure that any weekend away with her will be full of interesting stories and lots of hilarity = so again no pressure for me to do anything, no planning, no entertaining, I could just enjoy thanks to my two favorite Italians.

Luna di Miele:  In addition to reveling in the love for my Italian girlfriends and visiting the wedding spot of Laura, May is also the start of honeymoon season in Rome. There was a time where I had a lot of weddings to attend, and I thought after that stage came the baby shower/baby arrival stage (and yes it has), but I never realized there was going to be a honeymoon stage (you know other than my perpetual MeMoon). I guess I have the romance of Italy to thank for that.  I have four couples coming to Rome over the next month for their honeymoon. While I love third-wheeling on honeymoons (thank you Patty and Mike for indoctrinating me back in NZed), I still am shocked that people actually want to see me on their honeymoon. So while I've been here a year, I now have a new challenge - what to do/how to entertain a honeymooning couple without it getting real weird. I'm never sure if they're just being polite telling me they're in town, or how much they actually want me to plan/do with them - so my game plan is joining up for a prosecco toasts and then giving them a romantic itinerary to head off on their own. My gift of Rome-ance. First couple this week, Shannon and Pete; next up Sam and Pat; with a short break before the next set arrives and I can revise my recipe for how to crash a honeymoon

The heat came early this year: While I'm not sure it's actually hotter this May; the heat has certainly gotten to the Italian males early. You remember when I told you last summer about the transformation, where all of a sudden it's like everyone is in heat? Well that was August last year, so it might be a long summer. Here's one example of the male variety highlights while we're still technically in Spring:

-The Banker:  If you've ever pondered the idea of dating that friendly teller at your neighborhood bank, I can tell you first hand why it could be a terrible idea - 1) They have access to ALL of your personal information, which eliminates any pretense of google searching and a kind of awkward moment when the bill comes, since they know exactly how much money you make (and have at that very second); 2) At my bank, all the tellers live together because they are transplants from the Bank headquarters in Northern Italy, which means the whole bank knows your business; 3) Did I mention they have control of your money? So, I've always loved my bank because they're so 'friendly' and there's never a line, small fees, etc. and I've always chatted with all the tellers (men and women alike), until one day I received an email and text from one teller (yes he used my personal info to contact me) asking if I wanted to get a coffee. I figured an innocent coffee with sort of a co-worker (the bank is in FAO) was harmless. Then he asked to meet for lunch, which I also thought was fine until when deciding on a place he suggested cooking in MY house, ummm. I quickly realized it was going to get weirder when age came up and I asked how old he was, he told me, then I told him how old I was - and he said I know. Oh right, you have all my info and know how much I spent on gum this month. So I quickly decided we should probably limit any future coffees.....but I mean I still have to go to the bank. I went the other day and spoke to another teller about increasing my cash withdrawal limit and he told me I had to talk with the 'friendly' banker about that, so I said I would come back another time. Within 2 hours I had received an email from said friendly banker informing me that he would raise my limit as soon as I met him for coffee again - oh, I see, bribing me with my own money, sounds like a page from Bank of America. I avoided the coffee until today when I sent him an email saying I was really busy with meetings and couldn't get coffee, so he offered meeting after work and signed the email - I love you. Now there might be many language misunderstandings, but that is one that clearly means I need to switch banks

Other characters in the mix in the Spring Bloom are The Brother/Language Exchanger; the Former Colleague; and the Mail Room porters.

And in other *related* news, some ongoing research that I've been conducting which you can add to the files of cultural exchange that I LOVE. You may remember my former language exchange friend Claudio who I journeyed to Abruzzo with? Well on the way there we had a random conversation about me wanting to go swimming in one of the mountain lakes up there, at which point he informed me that it's quite dangerous to swim in lakes, and in fact more dangerous than the sea. While I tried to get some explanation since I couldn't understand how this could possibly be the case, I sort of brushed it off/forgot about it as just maybe his weird thing, until lakes came up in another conversation with some Germans who are also living here and were eager to go swimming. I told them I had been informed by an Italian that lake swimming is dangerous and they were also incredulous, and so began my research to confirm this 'myth'.

I've since undertaken a survey simply asking all Italians I meet, including those I encountered in Sierra Leone who aren't afraid of much living there, "Do you think its more dangerous to swim in a lake or the sea?". And their reaction is amazing - they are ALL adamant that the lake is more dangerous. I've been given a range of explanations including - volcanic currents (since some of their lakes are former volcanic craters); the fact the water is murky/not clear; people try to swim across lakes whereas they don't try to swim across the sea - but my all time favorite explanation was the dangerous mud when you have to wade into the lake that can suck you down. This research has given me endless hours of entertainment and hilarity, and while I think I'm close to figuring out the 'real' conclusion behind this puzzle, I'd be interested if you all could help me by surveying any Italians you know, and they have to be real Italians, not Jersey Shore Italians. I promise to update you with my full conclusions - after I conduct a case study by swimming in an actual Italian lake

Finally found my dance partay in Salone

Transport Salone style - okada (motorbike taxi), mostly operated by former child soldiers

And where'd all those okada rides get me (other than where I was going)? An Africa Initiation wound.  I take full responsibility for this burn. One kind okada driver warned me not to exit on the right side and then the very next okada I took, what did I do? Exit on the right and burn my leg on the exhaust pipe. I'm fully initiated in 'real' Africa now with the scar to prove it

Driving through 'up country', aka the stix of Sierra Leone. Years ago a truck like this ahead full of young men on the back would mean major danger, and now just means one more form of getting around in a country hard to navigate. But doesn't the new Chinese road look superb?

Well this is what most of the roads look like in Sierra Leone - dirt with a million potholes. No matter if you have a UN SUV and you're just on your way to the beach, any given moment a flat tire is waiting, soon to be followed by a group of hungry/interested crowds. 

And potholes and all, the 45 min ride to the beach is worth it for many reasons - getting out of the mayhem, away from the dust, the clear water, but most of all the freshly caught lobster for 10 euro. Yes, This is Africa 

Sierra Leone has two of Lonely Planet's best undiscovered beaches just a short ride from the capital, Freetown.  It's quite possible to have the beach all to yourself to frolic on. I was glad to have the company of my new ex-pat friends and a bus full of Sierre Leonans having a beach dance party - am I in paradise?

Shopping Salone style - I got a new bag, a pair of sandals custom made (from a tyre) on the spot, and a new beach blanket, all for under 20 euro

And here you go, as promised, photos of African children. Nothing but sass here on the beach at Laka. The kids are so well trained that they rub their bellies and motion to their mouths and say "I'm hungry" while putting their hands out....until you tickle them and they burst into laughter and belch up the Fanta and french fries they just got from the last ex-pat

Oh right, I was in Sierra Leone for work not the beach and tickling children.  In two weeks, we arranged two workshops that somehow were attended by all 11 Ministries that are part of our effort. I was so impressed by the dedication of all of the Sierra Leonans we're working with. They would even call us at night or on the weekend to discuss work. We even ran into the Deputy Minister of Environment on the beach, where he stayed with us for an hour discussing work. Watch out, this country is ready to catapult itself out of poorest country in the world status. (However, even the Government is lacking technology/meeting rooms/water/working bathrooms)

Visiting the South-South cooperation China farm. We just stopped by to say hi and check out their rice production, and then six hours later we'd had countless green teas brewed with a generator, and a five course lunch where they insisted we take gin and tonic and kept apologising that there wasn't more food. Then they offered me a ride back to Freetown (saving me from another Africa initiation of the public bus) saying that Int'l consultants are not allowed to take public transport (true, but then again the UN rules and reality are two different things). The ride, which took me 3 hours on the way there in a FAO car with driver, took 6 hours on the way back with my Chinese saviours since they refused to let their driver go above 80km/hr. Two things I learned on this visit about China, 1) They love cheersing. Seriously, I could barely eat because they kept interrupting with a very formal cheers to honor us. 2) They are super cautious, not only our slow speed but they made me ride with the window up cause they were worried someone would reach into the car to steal something. Please imagine 90 degrees in a car with the windows up with two Chinese men, an SL driver, no air conditioning, and sitting in traffic in the middle of an African city = how tolerance/patience are fomented

Rural Sierra Leone, prime for frolicking

Attending an agricultural fair and visiting our farmers selling their  honey

Deep in diamond country. Don't watch Blood Diamond if you haven't seen it yet, unless you want to have nightmares about my next visit 

Every Sierra Leonan wants to be your friend. What friend means is another story. Our 'friendly' FAO driver KeKe, who drove us quickly/safely up country while discussing his experience in the war, the coming elections this year, and the hilarity he's experienced taking white people to his parties and their horror at how loud the music is and how fervent the dancing is.

SL's LOVE dancing, maybe more than me. This picture doesn't capture it, but this is from a small bar in Bo in the middle of rural SL with a ramshackle live band. No matter the venue, the music, or the people, SLs are on the dance floor and their moves are fantastic. Even better is when they make fun of white people dancing

No wonder that the best lunch to be had in Freetown is at GIZ, the German Cooperation Agency - Oh Germans. Mango juice, fried plantains, spicy beans, and salad - needless to say I ate well during my time in SL

The Expat community in SL is huge and closely knit. I had a more active social life in Freetown than I do in Rome and made many friends for my next visit. Here on the Pelican (tiny boat from Freetown to the airport) with my new French friend Benji with Freetown in the background

Thank you Salone for a truly amazing initiation to West (real) Africa

 Since I've already written quite a bit in these captions, I'll try to spare you a never-ending post and just give you the highlights of two weeks in Salone (Sierra Leaone in Krio). I thought about this post and I debated whether I should tell you the truth or sugarcoat it a bit, and I've decided on the truth - so Mom, Dad maybe you shouldn't read this one until I'm back from my next visit to SL - so stop now.....

Real Africa:  You know I've joked before about going to Africa and my experiences thus far, and I knew before arriving that SL would be different. I mean Tunisia can't even really be considered Africa, and Tanzania is like the Beverly Hills of Africa, and Sierra Leone is the 4th poorest country in the world. So I prepared myself, but nothing could prepare me for the feeling of being somewhere where you really have no options but survival and just being in the moment.  SL is the first place I've ever been where I didn't feel like I could navigate it by myself - whether going to the office, or the store, or wherever. Lucky for me, I had Lidia who has been living there for two years and set me up with an apartment to stay in with another FAO employee, Fulvio (Italian), who grew up in Somalia who has the best/most interesting stories ever. It made a world of difference to have advisors close by to teach me the ways of getting around, food shopping, and interaction with locals.

Transport:  Yes, we are told to never ride in anything but a UN vehicle in Sierra Leone. Let me tell you how realistic that is. The roads are mostly unpaved, except for a few recently done, which means there is horrific traffic just to go 1km. The taxis aren't taxis like we know them (you and the driver) but rather like buses, where they fill up and only go to set places. You also have to race to get in and then you are likely sitting on top of someone, and the car is barely running. So the best, quickest, easiest form of transport is by motorbike, as long as you're willing to bite down hard and say a lot of prayers. The motorbikes, while fast and able to dart in and out of traffic, are driven by former child soldiers who were given bikes as part of the peace keeping to give them an alternate income to arms; they don't have helmets for passengers, and the roads are filled with a million obstacles a la Paper Boy - pigs, children, potholes, construction, etc.  Add to that carrying a laptop while having to balance myself over the bumps at high speed, makes you appreciate each arrival at your location (Mom I warned you to stop reading)

Work:  My recent experience in Tanzania made me a bit jaded in that you have to pay people to attend your workshops and people still aren't that engaged. Well not in SL - even on a technical subject,  people were so willing to meet and are so engaged and ready to work even at night and on weekends. Working in SL makes you realize what it was like in 1960 without computers, email, phones, etc. and what it takes to get things done - hardworking, dedicated, patient people. The other thing I really enjoyed about working in SL is the lack of hierarchy (unlike Rome) where you can easily chat with the Deputy Minister on the beach and then he starts calling you Liz, and all of a sudden you're besties

SL culture:  Besides the dance parties (love), SLs make it very hard for you to imagine that they are the poorest people on earth because they are sooo happy and friendly. I really can't imagine happier people, especially for what they've all been through. Everyone has been touched, and often extremely (raped, family members murdered, etc.) by the war and there are countless amputees everywhere, and yet I didn't meet or encounter a single unfriendly person. While they have grown accustomed to a donor society (being given things) so they will ask you for money/food, they laugh when you explain why you're not going to give it to them. That said, they will rob you if you give them the opportunity. A new experience for me was being somewhere where being white is so interesting. When you walk on the street, people will touch your skin just to feel if white skin feels different. Babies will cry and run from you when they see you because they think you're a ghost because of your skin.

Social life:  The expat community in Sierra Leone is huge (and attractive, think Leo a la Blood Diamond), and very closely knit given your lack of options to be friends with locals even if you want to (given the subtext of money).  During my two weeks, there was an activity every night - from making Italian dinner together, to open mic night, to dance parties, to beach outings and barbecues. It was more active and I got to know people better/faster than my whole time in Rome.  Part of this is due to a lack of options, you're forced together and there are few locations where expats frequent. The added bonus is everyone has a story, and often many, so it is always entertaining. It's also great language practice since you're forced to switch between English, French, Italian, Canadian, and Spanish all in one evening. One NGO party I attended was a raging dance party, complete with locals, that sadly ended in violence over a stolen cell phone (among locals). At first I was scared and shocked, and then I realized the same thing could/does happen at any house party in the U.S. I was however disappointed how many UN employees were not carrying first aid kits and were very blase about the whole debacle.

Overall:  Being in SL for two weeks felt like a bit of a combination between camping (no water/electricity many times) and like when I moved to Costa Rica and didn't understand anything and everything was new. Everyday was intense - both good and bad, and overall just made me feel very alive. Maybe that's from stripping away all the stuff, and you just have to get through each day for all the good and the bad.

I'm very much looking forward to going back now that I'm initiated and can just enjoy the dance parties

Holy Canoli and other blessings on Easter Weekend

So after over a year in Italy, I finally managed to convince an Italian to go away for the weekend with me to explore their own country. And where better to go, but the country of the gods - Sicily. We planned the trip less than ten days in advance and somehow fit in volcano hiking, arancino eating, waterfall dipping, temple meandering, canoli devouring, and a lot of asking crazy Sicilians for directions. One of my highlights for the trip, was that Paola was also a foreigner in Sicily. She's from the North of Italy (Torino) and never was the divide between North and South more clear than on this trip. First, she thought she was going to Africa and packed all summer gear. Second, everyone we talked to (and there were many considering how many times we got lost) could not understand her and she could not understand them. Plus everywhere we went they treated both of us equally as oddities. Another highlight is all of 'Paola's Tips' on life, which truly deserve a book, but that is for a later post or publication. I only wish I had a flipbook of all the characters we encountered and the stares and treatment as aliens we were entreated to. Here are some quick highlights of how I spent my second Easter in Italy - one year with the Pope, the next with holy canolis, guess which was better?

Mt Etna, dominating Sicily

Isola Bella, which you can

walk to at low tide

Paola was scared we couldn't

drink the water from the tap -

I mean she basically thought we

were going to Africa. But I assured

her that Sicily's water was still safe,

but even I was pleasantly surprised to

find one of my favorite things about Rome -

fontanelle (nasoni) whenever you're thirsty

Bar Turrisi in Castelmola was

recommended to us by our apartment

owners. They told us there was a surprise

and that it was 'unique in the world'. As we

approached the entire town was empty and it

felt a bit eerie, and then we entered and the

laugh was on us.......And as our host said,

"You have to see it for yourself", so rise to the

occasion

Fortifying for the Etna hike with

Arancine, a speciality of Sicly - a fried

risotto ball stuffed with your choice of

meat ragu, spinach, prosciutto, eggplant, ....

We had at least one every day

We didn't plan well for our hike to

Etna, and neither of us had appropriate

'winter' gear for the top of Etna, so I

suggested frolicking to keep warm, and then...

this was created. (in the background

part of our transport up Etna)

Our first form of transport up Etna,

a Finuvia (gondola)

Some of Etna's 300 craters

Navigating the top of

Etna, the highest volcano

in Europe

Even the boiling steam from the

crater couldn't keep us warm

Having fun despite the cold, wind, and

lava

Hills = happiness

Seriously, I've unleashed

a monster

Thinking - life is pretty awesome

Playing in the waterfalls and many

cascading lakes of Cava Grande in

Avola, Sicily

You might not be able to tell at this

scale of photo, but driving around Sicily

you just keeping bumping into the

glory of Etna dominating the horizon

I managed to eat a holy canoli

everyday of Easter weekend -

which was truly a blessing

Ancient Ortigia, once considered

the most important city in the Greek

empire

The sunrise from my

terrace at the Lemontree,

overlooking Taormina and the

Mediterranean

Cracking open my first Italian giant

chocolate Easter egg with a special

surprise inside

Paola told me that her 'favorite' American

friend used to make her banana pancakes.

So obviously there was a challenge thrown down.

Paola told me she wanted me to make "my recipe".

Err, umm, what's in Bisquick? Quick google search

later, and a confession to Paola, and I think

I might still somehow be working my way in as

the favorite American. It may have been the chocolate

chunks of Easter egg I added, or the wind of Sicily

whispering in her ear

She's fully hooked on

frolicking

And why not, it NEVER

gets old, unlike these

temples

Grazie mille Paola per una

bellisima Pasqua in Sicilia