Thursday, April 21, 2011

Capital Thoughts goes to Africa, aka Vegas

Buona Pasqua!

Trying to practice taking it slower

The park by my house, Villa Doria Pamphili,
where I've become the local creep among the
castles

Becoming a Tunisian bride - almost
Sidi Bou Said's blue doors
Just your average working sunset from the
terrace of my hotel room in La Marsa
Downtown Tunis, the site of the revolution
The only yellow door in all of Sidi Bou Said,
the doors and windows are painted blue to keep out
mosquitos (apparently this house loves bugs - like me!)
Sidi Bou Said - get here while prices
are at rock bottom
The port between Sidi Bou Said and Carthage
Umm yes I would like to come back here

So in my efforts to catch up on this blog I will skip over my trip to America and the Bahamas, even though yes there were capitals involved in my trips. Suffice it to say it was awesome, too short, and while I tried to mentally prepare to avoid the emotional turmoil that I felt on my last visit (June 2010) - I think it's just the way it probably goes when you only go home for two weeks total in 18 months. Thank you to all of you that I got to see for putting up with my mania once again, for hosting me, and setting aside time to make my short stay so fun filled. One day I will come home again and get to see those of you I didn't see and hopefully have more time with all of you. A few highlights I will share - an epic dance party/karaoke session with a few of my all-time favorite ladies, FINALLY going through the stuff I left when I moved to New Zealand and getting organized and laughing at old memories and stuff with my Mom and sis, finally getting to see Bob's bachelor pad, riding on the Current in the Atlantis and yelling I LOVE THE CURRENT at least once a day for five days straight, getting to share in the wonderful wedding weekend of Kaitlyn and Matt and get to know some of their friends better who are now my friends, and one of the all time highlights, when someone asked me where I live and I said Rome, they said, "Oh, Rome, New York - I know someone there".

Rome (Italy) welcomed me back with open arms and warm sunny days. I realized when I walked back into my apartment and went to work the first day that it does actually feel like home now, and that I actually live here. And with that cozy feeling, I immediately had to get busy getting ready for a work trip to Tunisia. Given that Tunisia had a bit of a revolution a few months ago, I had to get an advanced security clearance in order to travel there. What this meant was taking another 3 hour exam (refer back to my Basic Security in the Field exam from December). I now know how to tell directions and find my way based on the old stick in the ground/shadow method; where to build a shelter and with what materials along a river or a desert; how to coordinate with the military in a peacekeeping/military mission; and I'm even better at spotting landmines. Now, even with all that I wasn't too worried about traveling to Tunisia because I was going with two male colleagues and our assistant had arranged a UN car to pick us up at the airport. I ended up finding out late on Friday night that I was actually on a different flight than my colleagues (10 hours earlier) and there would be no airport pick-up for me. So I packed my bag full of scarves and full-coverage clothing to make myself as Muslim looking/respectful as possible, dug deep to resurrect my French, and hoped for the best.

Although I ended up taking a pirated cab from the airport (and scolding myself the whole ride with my hand on the doorhandle in case I needed to quickly expel myself), all was fine other than getting slightly ripped off (which I had expected anyway). The driver and I had a few nice chuckles in French about him ripping me off, and he delivered me safely to my gorgeous hotel where I was greeted by a nice limeade refreshment and a seaside terrace. I only had Sunday afternoon to explore so I headed straight for Sidi Bou Said outside of Tunis. I was slightly worried about walking around as a woman alone as I had been told that it wasn't well accepted. The first shop I walked into, the shop-owner offered me a tour of the ancient building and then a tour of the town, where he became my personal photographer. I kept saying he didn't need to escort me, but he then offered me a tea (one of the best I've ever had) in the oldest teahouse in the town, some sunflower seeds, and bought me a fried donut. I was beginning to wonder how much I was going to end up owing after this treatment, but in the meantime we discussed the revolution, life in Tunisia, the upcoming elections, and the history of Sidi Bou Said. He also showed me the former dictator's house and filled me in on all the gossip surrounding his expulsion/flee. I ended up purchasing a few items from his shop hoping that that would be a good exchange and then tried to sell me a 1,000 Euro coral necklace, then asked me to dinner and said, "Don't worry I won't eat you". Ummm, and that's when I made my exit......

But in general, the parts of Tunisia that I saw are gorgeous, people are really friendly, my scarves and Muslim-wear were unnecessary (although I felt myself becoming more Muslim as I tisked at the Western women wearing short skirts/bare arms), and it feels/seems very calm. There are tanks and barbed wire downtown around the government buildings, but people seem happy. A group of little German kids were even posing in front of one of the tanks (tried to snap a pic, but was too slow). I asked a few Tunisians about the revolution and crime and the lack of a government, and they said that before the revolution there was no crime and that it has increased to the point of pickpocketing - so basically Tunisia is safer than Rome. People are very hopeful about the elections in July, although slightly worried that the more extreme Islamists might win because they are the most organized at this point. Tourism is one of Tunisia's main industries/incomes and obviously the industry has completely tanked (excuse the pun) - so get there and help the economy remain stable - its beautiful, the food is delicious (seafood, olives, harissa, feta, couscous), people are friendly, and the Tunisians are hot.

Workwise the conference in Tunisia was a bit surreal as the entire conference was structured around a tool that I created while at the IDB. So basically it was two days of having presented to me a tool that I created. One of the weirdest professional experiences I've ever had, but I guess such is life as a consultant where you don't own your work. However, it was also one of the best organized/moderated workshops I have ever been to. Everything ran on time, it was super productive, great food and smoothies during coffee breaks, professional photographers, no boring presentations or people falling asleep. So if you're planning a conference - another reason to head to Tunisia.

Back to Italy - The flight from Tunisia is only one hour and on Tunis Air they somehow fit in serving you a meal. Now granted for breakfast this amounted to three servings of bread (croissant, roll, and muffin) but still impressive. Landing in Rome however on a flight from Tunisia = the most ridiculous customs line I have ever seen, definitely longer than the flight and probably due to a small war that Italy is having with France over Tunisian immigrants right now. My colleagues both have diplomatic UN passports, but again as a measly consultant I just have my ol USA passport and an Italian identity card that I've never been sure of the point of. Upon seeing the line they suggested we go in the diplomat line (or no line as the case is) and that they would try to get me through. We presented our documents and they let me and my German boss right through and told my colleague who is ITALIAN (with a diplomatic passport) that he had to go in the normal line. Oh the hilarity and lack of logic of Italy - welcome home.

It's Easter weekend which means four days off for me. Thanks first to Jesus and second to Italy for being so Catholic. With my travel to the states and then Tunisia I have decided to stay close to home this weekend and practice my passegiata before I head off to the Royal Wedding next weekend and a dance party with the LJs.

In Italian language learning news, I've decided enough is enough and I need to shake things up a bit if I'm ever going to feel comfortable speaking. I posted a listing on a consultants listserve for a language exchange and got 6 responses - all men. Their names are Guido, Claudio, Marco, Stefano, Lorenzo, and Mario (no, I'm not kidding). I've decided that I'm going to meet them all for humor's and learning's sake, and maybe at the same time Juliet will finally check her email