Thursday, March 4, 2010

One Month! - A week of firsts and Swedes

My new car!
A view from Victoria's campus, its all about the views in Wellington.
My favorite shop in Wellington that I walk by on my
way to my office. Yes, these signs are all for one shop - cufflinks,
a barber, cigar bar, dry cleaner, and tailor, all in one - the gentleman's destination shop! I fantasize about what the women's destination shop would be....a pedicure, champagne, subs...
First day of school, ready to pretend I'm 21 again.

As you know, because of course you read last week's blog post, this was my first week of school, in which I also experienced a bunch of other firsts:

-First going to a movie alone - I mostly went cause I ate too much at dinner and decided I should walk it off, and then I got there and the movie was in SWEDISH. I definitely would not have gone had I known this, even though I love my Swedish heritage, I don't speak it. Also the subtitles were in white writing which made it so I couldn't read them most of the time. Oddly, I felt like Swedish was a lot like Spanish, this may have been a stretch. Thank god I already read the book (yeah the book is better than the movie as that goes). Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, in case you're wondering

-Bought my first car by myself (thanks Mom and Dad for all the previous mobiles) - and at that I bought it via text, hilarious. Its a 1996 Mitsubishi RVR (they don't sell them in America). In my car search, I had a lot of advice. From the Americans, well mostly Brad, told me not to worry as much about getting everything checked out because "kiwis are trustworthy". From the kiwis, it was all about buying a (tidy) small car or a station wagon (hugely popular here). And while I tried as I might, I just couldn't buy a station wagon, so I really owned my Americanness and bought an SUV, or more like a quasi SUV. It has a van door, but only one row of seats and its four wheel drive. And as my friend Stephanie said, "Now that looks like an "I live in New Zealand car"". It is automatic which bummed me out, but I think I will appreciate it on the hilly roads of Wellington. I mean driving on the other side is enough to think about. What ultimately sold me - a 3 year old girl of the family invited me to her room to see her toys = trustworthy.

-First cricket game watched - with the helpful commentary of my roommate Aaron. I'm sure my questions must have been annoying him. Now many people equate cricket to baseball to explain it to Americans, but its like who would watch a 5 day game of baseball? Aaron equated it to golf for me, where you go for maybe only one day, or a few beers, and then keep an eye on the final tally. Super helpful. Well the other night was an abbreviated version (just 3 hours) and it came down to the final bowl, where a guy they nicknamed "The Virus" made it to beat undefeated Australia! While I won't say I'm hooked, it was exciting for those last ten minutes...

-First day of school in over ten years - I forgot what a bureaucracy universities are, but its even worse when you don't really know the system. I think I waited in about twelve lines, and had people tell me different things every time and act like I was the one confused. Finally got my ID today, student discounts here I come! Also, my first week of class I had Research Methods (mandatory for masters apparently) where we learned about the Dewey Decimal System and researching on the IN-TER-NET. Hoping this course expands quickly. Alternatively, Maori 101, was outdoors with free lunch and a quiz about culture, including who won the most medals at the Olympics. In my group (only American) I said the U.S., since I didn't see much of the Olympics, and of then of course looked like the typical American thinking we're the best, when Canada really did it. Au Canada...

Kiwi life this week -
-New Zealand has an even shorter history than the U.S. (only about 170 years, 1840 Treaty of Waitangi) so its nice being somewhere where America isn't the newest kid on the block. Craziness is NZ doesn't have a Constitution, only 1 of 3 countries in the world that doesn't. This also plays out in the tensions between Maori and Pakeha (and my research)

-People don't say bless you - random, but I don't get it. I've said it a few times when people have sneezed and no one says anything. Then I decided to wait for Kiwis to say something and nothing. Now I'm happy to learn something else to say (Salut, Tshui (sp), etc) but nothing?

-Went to see Cirkus Cirkor put on by the NZ Arts Festival, which is a big deal here in Wellington. Now as it happened, this is a Swedish production, big week for the Swedes. Tickets are expensive, so I bought the cheapest (with another Fulbrighter) which they warned would have views obscured in the Wellington Opera House, but was great. I guess if you have a kid that says they want to be in the circus you should feel better that this is where they could end up...super impressive and entertaining, would be proud to say my kid was in it

-The use of the English language - They say "Good on you" instead of "Good for you", and everything is something AS, but you're left to imagine as what. For example, "That car is cheap as" or "That would be sweet as". They say "drink driving", and call courses "papers" but also papers papers, and they call fries "chips" but also chips chips. They also call soccer, soccer, not football like their English buddies. Enjoying all the differences....

Friends - some of you have been concerned about my apparent lack of friends, (what gave it away, all my photos of just me, or my Beall jokes?), well I want to reassure you:

-I'm really enjoying the alone time. As many of you know, I love making big list of things to do, and then accomplish about ten percent of them, well now I'm looking at more like 75% production rate, which fits well with all I've lined up to do. A lesson I've learned from my dear friend and college roommate, Rebecca, is I need to put myself out there a bit more for new friends. I may have been becoming a bit insular. But as my wise friend Meredith said, if I had less alone time I wouldn't be able to come up with all my witty banter on my blog, so again trade-offs

-Alice and Aaron, my wonderful roommates. We make dinner together (alternating nights) and they love shows like Project Runway, Americas Next Top Model, the Good Wife, etc., even Aaron, although he may not like me blasting this to my huge readership (all 3 of you). My roommate Alice stayed home from work the other day cause she was sick, well while sick she made bagels and chocolate cake, from scratch! Who does that? And they've also lived in the U.S. so we have fun discussing gun laws, prostitution (legal here), gay rights (civil union legal here), and you know your general dinner discussion. I had to make sure they were okay with me having mace with me this week...

-Making friends - Although I'm doing just fine, I would like to make some friends over the age of 25 other than my roommates. My good friend, and co-woman of international residence in a country where they speak English but aren't American, Laura Jack, suggested stalking people on Facebook who may live in Wellington who went to my University. Well I really appreciated her creativity, although it carries a certain creep quotient. Note to self, maybe don't follow this advice at 4am when you can't sleep, which adds to the creep factor. So far, I've emailed one girl, and tonight I got a response! Thank you LJ and all your wisdom

-Progress - In my class today, we had to form groups, and I got a UK guy, a Brazilian guy (yey Latins!), and a kiwi girl who used to work on a yacht for five years (my future career move), so making progress....

You may have noticed a bunch of mentions of certain people, thats to show you I HAVE FRIENDS, you just don't live here, so come visit!

Next week, more on making friends, being a student, and I was hoping to travel this week but I don't have the car in my possession yet, so hopefully next week will go somewhere....

-

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Week 3, Hard at "work"

Yes it is possible to send me flowers here! This gorgeous
bouquet arrived to welcome me to my new home (thank you!@).
Reading up on climate change in NZ, while trying
not to get sunburned
My home office, also with a view

So this week I promised you all some pictures of me hard at work, and as you can see I've been doing my best. Also a few of you have asked how "work" is going. Just to clarify, I don't actually work here (I'm actually not allowed to per the Fulbright) so I can still get in my 12 hours of sleep a night if I choose. That said, I've been trying to cut back to 9-10.

So what am I doing here, other than tramping, eating kiwis and avocados, and petting sheep? Well, this week I started to figure it out. The thing about the Fulbright is, you write a proposal and then you don't actually go to the country (if in the Southern Hemisphere) for a year and a half, so as you can imagine, a lot changes..... My proposal in a nutshell (working on the nutshell part) is to research the business development opportunities in the Central North Island land settlement of the Maori, within the context of climate change. Now a few things I've noticed about said proposal since I've arrived:
1. Its extremely controversial, the whole settlement process of Maori land claims is controversial, and then throw in the fact that I'm Pakeha (white) and not kiwi, makes everyone sort of grimace. Now I knew that it was somewhat controversial, but someone may have wanted to warn me off

2. My academic advisor is not actually closely involved with any part of my proposal, which makes it hard for him to advise, that said he's been very welcoming. When I met with my Maori advisor he suggested wine and learning Maori songs and dances (this is, of course, part of my "work"). Somehow he knew the way to get me to dance and sing was to offer me wine

3. Because its so controversial and a hot topic, if I am successful, it could be very useful, or at least I'll keep telling myself that

This week I tried to convince the Victoria Management School that they should give me a Masters degree for this research so that my time here can be a bit more useful (called a Masters in Commerce and Administration by thesis), and while it seems that I will be able to do this, I first have to take a research methods course in order to ensure that I know how to do research (hmmm, but okay). After having this conversation, the Management school decided maybe I'd rather be with the other "students" rather than have my own office. Umm, no, thanks for asking. So could be Masters for loss of office, trade-offs....

Okay enough of all that work stuff...what else did I do this week:
-drove on the left-hand side for the first time. Shifting with my left hand is the weirdest part, no car purchase yet, but maybe soon
-made mexican lasagna for Aaron and Alice, not as good, still figuring out Celsius with cooking
-went to Wellington's version of Screen on the Green, free movie in the botanical gardens
-laughed at a few more of my jokes
-went to an NZ Association of Americans happy hour, where one my fellow Fulbrighters had to explain that climate change is real, in other words it felt just like home
-found out that in order to enroll in papers (courses) I have to physically go to each professor and have them sign me in, so I decided while making the effort why not enroll in two more papers than originally planned, including Maori language 101
-watched highlights of the Olympics where the NZ sportscasters just take a piss (make a joke) about each of the events. While I may not be getting the coverage you guys are, I have seen some good interviews with Bode Miller about camper vans, and some good aboriginal ice dancing jokes
-signed up for a tramping club (yes, you have all made this joke, very clever)
-got Magic Jack up and running so feel free to call anytime (its free)
-finally made contact with some of the friends of friends that people put me in touch with here
-Kiwi hug counter = still zero, but one hug from a Brit and two American hugs

Tonight, trying to muster my energy to go out with the youngsters (other Fulbrighters) since i have yet to go out since I've been here ....Next week, first week of school!!!

Friday, February 19, 2010

Feb 20, Week 2 in NZ

Finishing Round the Bays 7km on Sunday, always wanted
one of these photos
8 Durham Crescent, new apartment, off the road, this is part of the little path that goes up
This way to number 8 Durham Crescent, no way to miss it
The side yard with the view to the harbor behind me, my room looks out on this yard.
The view of the harbor from the living room, its the reward
for the steep climb up the hill.
Sad to leave Marlborough Sounds on the first gorgeous
day since I arrived there
I'm on a BOAT.....
Twenty nine! The Irish staff at the hotel all gasped when I said I was 29 which I took
to mean a) 29 is old, and b) I'm so youthful
Celebrating 29 with champagne
And another rainbow at sundown on my birthday, that was number 28
First thing I saw on my birthday, a rainbow - my Mom said
there was a rainbow the day I was born, awwww
My dinner after my hike, they gave me all these condiments
without me asking! I was still 28, fries and beer acceptable
dinner after hiking 23km
In case I was feeling so good I wanted to walk/swim all
the way back to Wellington.
Thought this was a kiwi, got real excited, then the biker
yelled that there were plenty, at which point I deduced it was a weka.
The birds walk on the ground here because there are no native predators. A young lady back home told me to beware of bears, but there are none, not even any snakes here...makes tramping and camping pretty worry free
View from the top, maybe along km #10, not sure,
all gorgeous
23km, needless to say I was nervous, but also notice
how it says 9 hours, well I did in 5.5, take that QCT
Sunset on Marlborough Sounds, this in addition
to the spa, really made my day
Kayaking around Marlborough Sounds, this is called the Gap, its about 20m wide between the two bays, so back in the day they could carry canoes through here instead of going around the point
Made it to the top of day one, QCT, about 15km
First stop, Portage Resort on Queen Charlotte's Track in Marlborough Sounds, luxury tramping since they transport your bags by boat along the way
Pot Belly in Kaikora! Checked and no mushroom
melt unfortunately...
First time with toes in Pacific from this Hemisphere,
in Kaikora, South Island, not as cold as I was expecting.
My valentine, on the Peninsula Walk in Kaikora on V-day.
Enjoying some Sauvignon Blanc, sun, and music, at
the Marlborough Wine Festival.
Rocks in a gumball machine, some things
aren't as awesome in NZ
Pulling into Picton, South Island
The ferry crossing to the South Island
Hey Munros! Thinking of you while eating this ice cream
Leaving Wellington behind for a few days.

So since I last posted about ten days ago, I went to the South Island, the Marlborough Wine Festival, Kaikora, hiked part of the Queen Charlotte's Track, became a year older, moved into my new flat, and did a 7km run to benefit heart disease called Round the Bays in Wellington.

Here's a bit about my adventures over the week and few new things I've learned-

There's a few things that spending so much time alone will teach you:
-Your back will be perpetually sunburned in a weird finger splotchy way in the areas you can't quite reach

-NZ law prohibits you from renting a sea kayak alone (I know you're excited Mom), so you have to find a buddy (I convinced a chef at the resort to go with me)

-Spending so much time alone, you end up laughing it your own jokes which makes you think you're really funny (dangerous in my case), but hey they say if you don't like spending time with yourself, who will. Well, I've determined I'm a blast

-I've realized I need to think things through a bit better especially in terms of packing. For instance, hair dryer never needs to be included for weekend trips, did I ever use a hair dryer in the U.S.?, no, so who knows why I packed it for my last week away. Also, not a good idea to pack the sheets you're going to return in a backpack to run 7km (when you don't run at all normally), just because it will be more efficient. And now that I've finally unpacked at my new place, I'm really unclear what I'm going to wear once its not summer, hopefully I can find some wool around here......but good news, I did finally get a towel, actually have two now

-I've had crazy dreams every night that I've been here. Its like a parade of all the people who've been in my life every night, so its been good to see you all, at least while I'm sleeping. This might also be why I'm sleeping 12 hours a night, I'm too entertained.....

-What I love about New Zealand the most so far - how few people are here! Its really wonderful how uncrowded and how much open space there is. I'd be willing to add a few more if you all were here...Oh and I love how cheap avocados are here.

-What's been most shocking about New Zealand - how little culture shock there is and just how easy of a country it is to live in (so far, and I know I've been mostly vacationing rather than real "living", so we'll see how this goes)

-Most frustrating thing is how expensive certain things are - like books ($45), and the worldwide web ($2 for 10 minutes or 20$ per day, or $15 for 2MB of use), but hopefully this will grow less so since I got a library card and now I have a home where monthly internet is much cheaper

Here's a brief synopsis of the photos you saw above and the week in review:

-Took the ferry from Wellington with 2 other Fulbrighters, Brad and Rachel, takes 3.5 hours to the South Island, about $50 each way.

-Stayed in Blenheim for the Marlborough Wine Festival, Blenheim sort of looks like it got hit by a strip mall on fast forward, but there are some cuter parts. The backpackers (like a hostel) we stayed at was nice, on a river with free canoes and nice Irish people who were in our same room

-Wine festival, great, but you pay $50 just for the bands (Ladi6, Gin Wigmore, Liam Finn, etc) not for anything else, so all tastings are at least 3$ and glasses are 6$. By the end of the day it also sort of becomes a mess. People on the shuttle back to town were singing Know When to Hold Em and the national anthem of New Zealand. There was also a girl sitting behind me threatening to throw up the whole time.

-Kaikora, about 1.5 hours south of Blenheim, for Valentines Day, good walk along the coast and up around the peninsula, saw seals, orca, and had my first fish and chips here. Other Fulbrighters went back to Wellington.

-Water taxi from Picton to Queen Charlotte’s Track, luxury tramping where the boat takes your luggage from point to point

-Hiked about 15km, kayaked, swam, met some American guys who'd just spent four months in Antarctica, made me realize I was less isolated than I thought

-Hiked 24km to the next lodge, supposed to take 9 hours, took me 5.5, cause I’m a champ

-On my birthday, I slept 12 hours cause I can, woke up to rain and sun and many rainbows, and a full day of showers mixed with sun and rainbows. My Mom said there was a rainbow the day I was born, well Mom I think I counted 29 today, fitting J.

-Woke up to a rainbow, but also to someone stealing my food. Good experiences at backpackers till now....and still overall not bad, basically had the place to myself the second night.

-Rained all day, could have been depressing and lonely, but I used the time to organize pictures so it was like you all were with me....

-Had some bubbles and cake with the staff here and stuck a match in the cake to wish myself happy birthday and called it a night

-Woke up to a gorgeous day, unfortunately had to go back, but had a good boat ride back to Picton, ate some green shell mussels and got on the ferry back to Wellington

-Moved into my new flat, found out I needed to buy linen for my bed, really wishing that bedding made it now

-Ran 7km Round the Bays in Wellington on Sunday, finished in 45 minutes which I was pretty happy with. Got my bedding, went to farmers market, went to dinner at new roomates' parents house, made lunch for tomorrow, headed to bed. Good week

You may be wondering when I'm actually going to start working on what the Fulbright (aka you taxpayers) are paying for me to be here for, well don't worry, I get down to work tomorrow, so this next week I promise many pictures of me working away ......still to come pictures of my new roommates Alice and Aaron, and now that I have a home, I'm going to work on buying a car....



Wednesday, February 10, 2010

#1 One week in NZ

The week culminated with dinner followed by a giant jenga competition. I imaginatively named us the Fulbrighters, which may have had something to do with us losing first.
I was really feeling old since almost all the other Fulbrighters are fresh out of undergrad, but then this 800 year old Remu made me feel better in Otari Bush
Nat Geo eat your heart out, Te Papa AND a Day in Pompeii
Poster at health center on the marae. I found their use of the word "smear" highly disturbing. Never going to be able to go to Einstein Bagels again.
The marae of Waiwhetu, pronounced Whyfetu, they're known f or their pacifism. About 40 of us slept on mattresses on the floor inside, including 2 year olds and some people with a bit of sleep apnea, not restful, but cool
The cable car at my NZ grandparents, with my luggage loaded :(
The cable car coming down to the street
Sevens mayhem, fittingly an Australian monk was trying to hit on me
Some Seven's crazies worshipping Jaeger while in hot pants
WestPac arena for the Sevens, view from the corporate box, pretty awesome welcome for me
My name on my new office, apparently I had to come all the way to get my own office and with a window and a view!

Me with the new Ambassador to NZ and other Fulbrighter, Rachel at the marae (Maori meeting house), apparently the Ambassador loves Mexican so we're going to hit up Las Margaritas, I'm still skeptical of NZ having good Mexican


My NZ grandparents, Nancy and Graham, from their deck

Me, at the house I stayed at the first five days, I wanted to move in
View of the harbor from my office


NZ Sevens team in front of the Beehive (Capitol)



Okay so we can all agree I majorly failed at my DC 100 favorite things. But lets forget about that and move on.....maybe to Wellington, New Zealand. I will do my best. I've been here now exactly a week, so here's a short recap about what's been going on, a few lessons I've learned, and a bit of fun I've had.

Lessons:
-Pack lightly - unpacking in Dulles and missing your flight recommended to be avoided. In addition, landing in Auckland after a 13 hour flight and them deeming your bags a biohazard then racing to the next terminal....anyway pack light, but I do miss the items not able to make it, ie. a TOWEL (have since dried myself with a washrag and a random towel found in a bathoom, aka toilet)

-Pakeha (Kiwi, NonMaori) are not affectionate, no hugs yet :(, missing those Latins

-Rugby Sevens are different than traditional rugby and the All Blacks are not the Sevens team. Sevens is quite exciting and fast paced (only 7 minute halves). Also the All Blacks were poisoned in the Final game featured in the movie Invictus, poisoning not included in movie. Now I need to try to understand cricket....

-No need for a gym membership, the hills here a brutal, and when it looks flat and like a short walk to see an apartment, its NOT and you will basically show up sweaty wherever you go, but hoping it all pays off with some good leg muscles

-Sweet As, means something like "cool" or "no worries"

-Kia Ora, is like Aloha or Prego, you can use it coming and going

Things I had to travel across the world to get:

-Grandparents - Graham and Nancy, thank you so much! Living with people who cook all your meals, keep offering you biscuits (cookies), drive you around to see apartments and come in to each one, and going to bed at 10pm is awesome

-An office with a window, oh and a VIEW, oh and my name on the door as a "visiting scholar"

-A cell phone with automatic T9, which I'm still getting used to

-A tour of the legislature, today toured the Beehive, Parliament building, which I realized I've never toured the Capitol building in DC!

So far it has been a lot of fun and very busy, almost non-stop. Unfortunately or fortunately I guess, internet is not as easy to come by here and they charge you by the amount of file size you use (don't understand what this means) so my plans for skype and more easy contact haven't worked so far, will keep you posted.

It is a bit tough to be so far away, and you know living in the future and all, but luckily I've been kept busy with a ton to care of here. I miss all of you and very much hope you will visit.

I'm going to a wine festival this weekend and then Wwoofing for a few days, which is working on farms for free place to stay and food in exchange for your work. I'm going to be on a berry farm and then a livestock farm (cattle and sheep), then going to do some tramping for my birthday. I'll try to post an update next week.......